Fashion designers use the Paris show to show life in Ukraine. WGN Radio 720

PARIS (AP) — Geopolitical activism meets the tuxedo jacket at Paris Fashion Week. Vocal her designer from Ukraine put on a show where her team of 20+ people working in Kiev paid tribute to her country.

Here are some highlights from the Fall-Winter 2023-2024 ready-to-wear collection on Wednesday.

Ukrainian Litkovska ‘On Air’

A ticker outside the Grand Rex Cinema in Paris, a model for New York’s Radio City Music Hall, reads “From War Zones to Peace.”

Inside, guests gathered in an Art Deco auditorium for a radio-themed show by Ukrainian designer Lila Litkowska.

Entitled “On Air,” it was a metaphor for the unpredictable life in Ukraine unfolding minute by minute. . Litkovska’s collection reflects this contingency, blending styles in an overall loose and oversized display.

A more commercial look, such as wearing a black tuxedo coat over a floppy black slit skirt and sneakers, or a more commercial look, such as wrapping a black coat around the midriff with long sleeves to intentionally create an off-kilter silhouette. There was a play of abstract shapes.

The simple men’s suit was the most lovely of the understated show, and the long belt of silky underwear swayed gracefully behind her like a train.

But this collection wasn’t just about fashion. A video link next to the runway showed a live shot of Litkovska’s team in the Ukrainian capital.

Ukrainian fashion activities

Litkowska fled to Paris with her two-year-old daughter in February 2022 when Russian missiles began hitting Kiev. In Ukraine” designs by relocating the studio to a safer location in the country.

“In the first week of the Russian invasion, we moved to Lviv in western Ukraine. ” she told the Associated Press.

Litkowska said it was “same factory, same office, same team” as it was before the war, and “due to more orders, we expanded (the size of) the team in the first year of the war.”

Last year, by hosting fashion events for other Ukrainian designers and activists, including pop-ups in Paris, Berlin, Munich and Milan, she raised around €50,000 ($53,000) to buy medicines and travel to Kiev. It was used to support the largest children’s hospital. and the army. She asked for her 30% of her profits to be donated to Ukraine.

“It’s an amazing process,” she said, explaining that one of her initiatives included selling little angels.

Litkowska says the fashion community is key to raising awareness and funding for the war effort.

Undercover creates contrast

Jun Takahashi, founder and designer of Japanese streetwear-influenced brand Undercover, once cited British designer Vivienne Westwood, who died in December, as an inspiration.

Westwood’s signature punk odor was in the air as Takahashi unveiled a funky collection rich in eccentric glitz and contrast.

Glossy gray bubble fabric becomes a parachute-like shawl with a striking contrasting bib. rice field.

High and low musings continued in a scuffed bomber jacket crafted from fine tweed and bright violet twisted boots. Suits come in acid tones.

A glove on one hand and a hand motif on the pants that makes you want to sneak up on them, adding a must-have gimmick this season.

lagerfeld book

Fashion insiders gather at the Musée d’Orsay to celebrate the new book about former Chanel frontman Karl Lagerfeld, who died in 2019 at the age of 85.

To mark the worldwide launch of Paradise Now: The Extraordinary Life of Karl Lagerfeld, author William Middleton spoke with magazine editor Elizabeth von Guttmann about the book’s birth.

Middleton says his writing and biography focus on the German-born couturier’s business acumen beyond his design artistry.

Over champagne, VIP guests spoke about the enduring legacy of the man who spent decades in management positions at both Fendi and Chanel, becoming one of the most influential designers of the late 20th century . Fashion designers use the Paris show to show life in Ukraine. WGN Radio 720

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