By COLLEEN BARRY-AP Fashion Writer
Milan (AP) — Dean and Dan Köthen sincerely welcomed guests, including Swedish striker Zlatan Ibrahimovic. A calendar with reduced omicrons.
“The big deal is in this room,” they told the crowd in an instant statement before the Dsquared 2 label show. Thank you for coming here and supporting our decision to hold a physical show. For us, this is a step forward. “
“Two years have passed. It feels great to be back,” said the twins, mashing up a colorful and cozy Canadian puff coat, quilted shorts over jeans, and a delicate wool blanket. I announced the one that piled up. Go back to the outdoor mix and stay away from the booming crowd.
The surge in Omicron variants has reduced the preview of men’s clothing for Milan Fashion Week Fall / Winter 2022-23, significantly reducing the number of events than originally planned. Access to these was severely restricted by pandemic restrictions, as Italy’s virus infection counts hit record highs almost every day.
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Global powers such as Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada will continue to host live shows, but Milan’s flagship Giorgio Armani has been completely canceled and other brands have abolished digital runway shows. Over 40 planned live events have been reduced by a quarter, and about 15 live runway shows are running in parallel with physical presentations.
It’s far from last year’s Delta Surge, where the Milan runway was completely closed.
“The positive thing is that many important brands have decided to hold a runway show, which is a good sign,” said Carlo Capasa, chairman of the Italian National Fashion Chamber of Commerce. “Fashion is Italy’s second most important industry. We need to live with this virus and we have to find a way to keep people healthy while working so that the industry can continue to work. It’s important to remember that it doesn’t. “
As the pandemic continues to cast a shadow over Europe, Paris sees a slimmer selection of runway shows January 18-23, followed by haute couture. London cancels the January calendar and combines it with the February women’s preview.
In Milan, fashion spectators were surprised to find themselves in the auditorium seats facing the maxi screen for the preview of Zegna.
Instead of many expected live runway shows, creative director Alessand Rosaltri is the flagship off-white, black, and gray model for the snowy roads of the Zenia Oashi Nature Reserve in neighboring Piedmont. I showed you a 15 minute video of. He continued his technical presentation of new looks with a live model.
“It’s 10% live and 90% virtual,” Sartori told guests. “Without these problems, it would have been the opposite,” he said, referring to the latest virus surge that occurred in the perfect symphony with the fashion calendar.
Zegna has changed its brand name, removed its founder Zegna Zegna from its official name, and in parallel with its recent listing on the New York Stock Exchange, has integrated three lines to promote future growth. did. The new logo (reminiscent of a road marked with a yellow lane) shows not only the main road through the family reserve, but also the road ahead.
“I’m confident that it will work regardless of the bloody Covid,” said brand CEO Gildo Zegna rebelliously.
Sartori rethinks suits for young clients, offering softly tailored outer jackets, longer tunic coats and trousers, all in matching fabrics of different weights. Cashmere mock turtlenecks connect them. In Sartori’s vision, luxury men’s wear line buyers build a wardrobe each season and add new items in their flagship color palette of off-white, black and flannel gray, this season with Aubergeine and him with Vicuna. Offset with the charred amber shade you called. For camels raised for that precious wool.
In contrast, the DSquared2 collection beckons the road in a more violent, demonic way. Featuring cropped puffs, pleated plaid skirt tails, and sequined shorts, Layered Look suggested a hippie looking for a Grateful Dead travel show, but with the help of removable crampons, I enjoy rock climbing and trekking in the snow. In the front pocket.
Canadians, unlike other Milan brands, did not need an outdoor brand partnership to show that the wilderness is in their DNA.
Federico Cina launched the brand shortly before the pandemic, so it’s probably appropriate for him to make his debut on the runway as the virus continued to spread. The long silhouette is a freefall cable knit or ribbed knitwear that can be easily layered over wide leg pants. The runway’s debut collection featured leaf motifs taken from woodblock prints in the coastal areas of Emilia-Romagna.
“I never thought of giving up,” Cina said behind the scenes. Especially because the fashion chamber gives me this moment of visibility during Milan Fashion Week. It’s just huge. I never thought I wouldn’t do the show, especially with the right precautions. “
The Italian fashion scene has been hit by a pandemic since Italy recorded the first case of a locally transmitted virus in the west in the midst of Fashion Week in February 2020. Fall / Winter 2020-21 collection from the Sky Theater.
The digital trend continued until the spring-summer 2022 women’s clothing preview last September, with a few live runway exceptions. At this time, the vaccination rate, in principle, announced a return to the live show, despite the limited number and social distance. It was enough to provide the promise that some fashionista, close to the pre-pandemic number, could re-fill the runway seats and directly distinguish whether the glittering fabric was silk or satin.
In this edition, travel restrictions and concerns mean that many editors and buyers who intended to travel to Milan this month have canceled, especially from the United States, Capasa said. In addition, the important fashion markets of Asia and Eastern Europe, Swath, carry out vaccinations not approved by European health authorities, limiting travel to Italy.
Current health guidelines require fashion houses to allow all guests 4 square meters (a little over 40 square meters). This is a space that used to be 8 square meters. In many cases, it means something like a tenth of the pre-pandemic audience, requiring a tough phone call, even if few people travel. You need a more protective FFP2 mask.
In terms of fashion, the pandemic is currently in its eighth season. Capasa said he was happy that the outbreak had never been tracked during Fashion Week.
“We need to learn to live with this virus and stay vigilant about our behavior,” Capasa said. “If we learn something, it means we need to think very quickly and adapt to the situation.”
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DSquared2 Designers Return to Milan to Welcome Fashion Crowds | Lifestyle
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